Part 1: Getting Started
I always find repainting a male much more difficult than a female.
Why? I don't know, but I'll guess it is due to all the shadowing and rougher facial features of a male.
If you paint a male the same way you would paint a female doll, you will end up with a very feminine male doll, which is fine if that's the look you want.
Repainting is a lot like life, there are so many different looks in the world, and that's a good thing.
You want to choose a guy doll who would be fun to change.
I chose Euphoric Pierre Devries;
Not sure why they called him "Euphoric"
He doesn't look intensely happy...maybe it's the shirt?
He's a nice looking one to start, so you really want to be sure you want to change him, because there's no going back once you take off his facial paint.
His hair is cool, so this time no re-root in my plans.
His hair will come off with some heat and rubbing alcohol if you're in the mood for an entire makeover.
Paints and other tools vary. I use all kinds of paints, chalks, pencils, mediums, brushes, etc..
Here's what you will need;
Nope, Pierre isn't feeling it today.
1) Brushes: I use a 18/0 blotter and liner and a 0000 size liner. Both hard to find but www.dickblick.com art supply has both. I have also found them at Michaels, and that will save you the $8.00 plus WAY overpriced shipping charge of DickBlick's.
I also found a small "stippling" brush for beard dots (we'll talk more about facial hair next blog).
2) Acrylic Paints: I use Liquitex and Golden paints as well as some acrylic thin inks/paints from France and Folk Art paint. Stay away from anything labeled "heavy body", they are too thick and lump up easily.
3) Chalks/Pencils: I use Prismacolor watercolor pencils and chalk. Nice array of colors.
4) Acrylic Medium Flow Improver: I use it to make my paints have an even flow that lasts a bit longer without drying too quickly. It also will not change the color of the paint and gives the paint a nice smooth quality.
5) Q-tips: Both fine point (Target) and regular. I use them to take off old paint, remove mistakes, refine lines and add chalk color to the doll.
6) Acetone: Any nail polish remover works great. One site said use Non-acetone...don't, you'll be scrubbing paint off for an hour.
Note: Acetone will not harm plastic unless left on for long periods.
7) Palette and mixing sticks: Some use aluminum foil over ice as a palette to slow the drying process of paint after mixing. It's a good idea, but it's hard to see true color on aluminum.
8) Toothpicks: These come in handy for many tight little spots like adding pupils to eyes, nostril painting ( not your own ) and removing tiny flaws on your eyes (not your own).
I've been known to paint with a pushpin before. If you're gentle, it works!
9) Water: For thinning paints and cleaning brushes.
10) Magnifying Lamp: I really can't work without this piece. When doing eyes on a 13 inch or less doll it's a must-have, unless you're a rabbit.
You can find them on EBay for about $18.
Pick a nice desk or table to work on, cover it with some old newspaper and place a piece of cardboard box on it.
You'll thank me when you won't have to rub headlines off your doll's butt.
Grab a comfortable chair with a cushion and a nice drink...you might want some music and alcohol...and not to remove paint.
SPOILER ALERT:
Here's the finished and now much more euphoric Pierre:
This coming weekend I will be starting Part 2, so grab up your supplies and follow along!
